Celina Murphy
There's no denying it - shopping for groomswear can be exceedingly confusing, particularly if you've never bought a suit before, or have only purchased casual separates on the high street. If the terms "notched lapel" and "wing tip collar" mean literally nothing to you, don't worry! All you need is a quick briefing of some intermediate-to-advanced menswear terms and you're ready to pick out the wedding day look of your dreams! Our groomswear style glossary will help you articulate exactly what you're looking for, so you can be confident when you walk into the menswear store too buy the all-important suit! David O'Connor of Louis Copeland & Sons believes that a groomswear look should be a collaboration between the groom-to-be and the wedding specialist at his menswear store. "It's important that he communicates clearly what he has in mind, this should include the way he wants the suit to fit as well as the pattern and style." David kindly helped us with this groomswear style glossary, fleshing out some of the terminology with some handy hints and tips. So let's get started! A suit made from a brand new pattern, created to fit your specific measurements. "This is usually a very lengthy and expensive process," David explains. "Most customers now favour Made-to-Measure instead as it doesn't take as long, isn't as expensive and gives the same great result." A suit made using an existing pattern, but created to fit your specific measurements. A ready-made suit that comes in a selection of sizes and must be altered to achieve the correct fit. When a suit's jacket and trousers are sold separately, and may be different colours and fabrics. A great option for casual affairs. A fold sewn into fabric to add shape to a garment. The measurement taken from the crotch along the inner side of the leg, straight down to the floor. The measurement taken at the widest part of your bum. The measurement taken from the midseam at the back of the shoulder seam, 6" below the bottom of the collar. A rough-surfaced woollen cloth, typically of mixed, flecked colours. A nice compromise between smart and relaxed, it's perfect for a countryside wedding. A fabric with small marks or spots in a contrasting colour. A fine white vertical stripe made up of small white dot. The three most popular fabrics for suits, all of which are versatile and smart. Wool is good for colder weather, while cotton is breathable for summer. Cashmere is the most luxurious of the three. Another really popular choice for suits, a fine smooth yarn spun from combed long-staple wool. Velvet - a closely woven fabric of silk, cotton, or nylon, that has a thick short pile on one side for a luxurious and vintage look. Linen - an extremely lightweight fabric woven from flax, perfect for a warm-weather wedding. Be warned, it creases easily! Check - a pattern of modified stripes consisting of crossed horizontal and vertical lines forming squares, which can be large or small. "Subtly patterned suits are becoming more popular," David says, "especially subtle checks and small houndstooth patterns." Houndstooth - a zig zag or broken check pattern used mostly on tweeds. Smaller versions are called dogstooth and puppytooth. A formal dark suit worn with a white shirt and a black bow tie. Same as above, but with satin facing on the lapels, buttons, pocket trim, and a satin side stripe down the leg of the trousers. "Tuxedos seem to be growing in popularity too, but not the traditional black tux," David tells us. "As an alternative, grooms are choosing a midnight navy or even royal blue tuxedoes." A very formal daytime suit comprising a jacket with tails (known as a morning coat), trousers (usually pinstripe) and a waistcoat. A jacket with one column of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric. A jacket with a wider overlap and two parallel rows of buttons. A slit on the back of a blazer. Very slim-fitting jackets have none, some have a single vent in the centre to give you a bit more room to move around, while the roomiest jackets have double vents. The effect when a jacket is tailored in to fit the waist, rather than falling straight down from the arms. A narrow turnback at the wrist, usually with a curved edge. When the interlinings that are glued to the jacket’s shell. One of the cheaper construction techniques. When a separate interlining is sewn to the fabric. This allows the suit fabric to drape naturally, creating a clean, polished look, but tends to result in a more expensive suit. Featuring a small gap or notch where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel. Featuring an upward-pointing edge where the bottom collar meets the lapel. Featuring a continuous curve without any breaks or points. Usually seen on tuxedo jackets. Pockets with no flap. These are considered the most formal due to their sleek appearance. Pockets with a visible flap. A casual pocket that is sewn on as a patch after the jacket has been completed, not sewn into the main fabric of the jacket. A standard shirt collar with pointed tips that turn straight down. Same as above but with small buttons securing the tips to the front of the shirt. Usually seen on more casual shirts. A collar with wide points that are angled outwards instead of turning straight down, making room for larger tie knots. A heavily starched short collar with pointed tips that fold out, resembling wings. Usually seen on very formal shirts, often with a tuxedo. A band-shaped collar that encircles the neck without a full turndown. It can be tied with a button or stand upright for a casual look. Same as above but usually with a small gap in front. A standard shirt cuff with one or more buttons and no turnback. A formal cuff that must be folded back and secured with cufflinks. A cuff that may be worn either buttoned as a barrel or with cufflinks as a French cuff. The crease worn down the front of the trousers, originally a product of folding trousers for travelling, hence the name. It's generally only worn on formal trousers. The effect you get when fabric is turned up on the outside of the trouser leg. The standard finish on a pair of trousers, created when the bottom fabric is folded up inside the pant leg. A small floral arrangement worn on the lapel of a suit jacket. A broad sash worn around the waist, usually with single-breasted dinner or tuxedo jackets. A short, wide strip of fabric worn around the neck and tucked inside an open-necked shirt. A small handkerchief worn in the breast pocket of a suit jacket or blazer to add colour and personality. An ornamental pin for holding a tie in place. Need inspiration to get you started? Click here to see what incredibly stylish real grooms wore on their wedding day! 
Image by Anna G via One Fab DayGroomswear Style Glossary
Image by Lucy Lens Photography via One Fab DayTailoring Terms: Bespoke Vs Made-To Measure and Off-The-Rack
Bespoke suit
Made-to-Measure suit
Ready-to-wear or off-the-rack suit
Suit separates
Dart
Image by Treasure and Heart Photography via One Fab DayMeasurements: Inseam, Seat, Half-Back
Inseam
Seat
Half-back
Image by Pawel Bebenca Photography via One Fab DayFabric: Tweed, Velvet, and Worsted
Tweed
Flecked fabric
Pin-stripe
Wool, cashmere and cotton
Worsted fabric
Image by Iain Irwin Photography via One Fab Day
Image by Anna G via One Fab DaySuits: Dinner Suits v Tuxedos and Morning Dress
Dinner suit or black tie
Tuxedo
Morning dress
Image by Laura Kelly via One Fab DayJackets: Single-breasted Jacket Vs Double Breasted Jacket, Gauntlet cuffs and Supressed Waists
Single-breasted jacket
Double-breasted jacket
Vent
Suppressed waist
Gauntlet cuff or turnback cuffs
Fused
Canvassed
Image by Family Films via One Fab DayLapels: Notched Lapels, Peaked Lapels, and Shawl Lapels
Notched lapel
Peaked lapel
Shawl lapel
Pockets: Jetted Pockets Vs Flap Pockets, Patch Pockets
Jetted pockets
Flap pockets
Patch pockets
Shirt collars: Wing-Tip Collars, Spread Collars and Band Collars
Point collar
Button-down collar
Spread collar or Cutaway collar
Wing-Tip collar
Grandad collar or Band collar
Mandarin collar
Image by Erin Morrison via One Fab DayShirt Sleeves: Barrel Cuff Vs French Cuff, Convertible Cuffs
Barrel cuff
French cuff
Convertible cuff
Image by Giuliana Covella via One Fab DayTrousers: Cuffed Leg Vs Hemmed Leg and Traveler's Crease
Traveler's crease
Cuffed leg
Hemmed leg
Image by Heron Wedding Photography via One Fab DayAccessories: Cummerbunds, Cravats and Pocket Squares
Buttonhole/Boutonniere
Cummerbund
Cravat
Pocket square
Tie pin
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